A collection of useless information about Cambodia...

In Cambodia, much attention is given to balancing the worlds of heaven and earth.

Gods, Angles, Advisors, High incarnations and Guardians, are symbols of the world above.

The 'Nagas' are the serpent spirits of the underworld.
Garuda (named like the Indonesian airline), and deities of half snake half human, are often used symbols of the underworld.

The spirits of the underworld, are said to be guardians of hidden treasures and concealed teachings.
They are also believed to inhibit springs and rivers, create droughts by withholding rain, and believed to be able to control the weather, to bring about flooding and storms.

The snake, is a symbol of the underworld.
If you take a walk around Angkor Wat, you will often come upon the three, five and seven headed snake symbols, used in sculptures and wall carvings.
On bridges leading to gates and temples, you will most commonly see the five headed snake.

Here in Cambodia, devout Buddhists are not vegetarians.
On the island Bali Indonesia, most Hindus are also not vegetarians.
In fact, in Bali, it is common to use the blood of animal in celebrations and religious offerings.
These offerings are made to the demons of the underworld, as well as to the gods.

It is believed that in order to achieve balance in the world, one must balance his devotion.... and offer the blood of an animal (chicken or pig), to the spirits of the underworld, to pacify them, so they will not be envious of the beloved gods, and will not interfere with human life, by claiming people's spirits.

Here in Cambodia,
When a person dies, if he lived in the countryside, his body get buried in a coffin for a period of one to two years.
Later the remains of the body are dug out, and cremated.

The process of 'temporarily' burying the body, is done to allow the soul to navigate between the heavens and hell, and to decide on the correct path of reincarnation.

In the cities of Cambodia, burial space is in short supply and many people lack the funds for the 'step of temporary burial', so a cremation of 'fresh bodies' is very common.


It is believed that the accumulation of good deeds, will bring you good karma which will allow you to reincarnated into a better life.
In local belief, this means, reincarnating into a wealthy family, being able to enjoy a healthy body, get a good job and live a life full of happiness and blessings.

The doing of good deeds, giving of money to help monk and nuns, as well as helping the poor, is a major source of 'good karma builder.'

On the street of the city of Siem Reap, you get PLENTY of opportunities to build up your stash of good karma.

The market streets are full of beggars, coming towards you with cut limbs, begging for money or offering trinkets for sale.

You look at their injured bodies.... with stumps of limbs, lost in the land mines, and it is very hard to say no, and impossible to help all those in need.

For some, begging is not done to fill a need for daily food or clothing, it is simply their daily 'job', and you'll see them joking with the tuk-tuk drivers, counting their wads of cash, chatting with store keepers or friends.
They do not look hungry, and some, I am told, take home double the monthly salary of a hard working teacher or waiter.

The land-mines history is dark and bloody.
At one point, Cambodia was at war within itself, divided to three fronts.

Pol Pot, who was the leader of the Khmer Rouge, fought the son of the king, Prince Norodom Sihanouk, who was overthrown by his right wing opponent party, headed by Lon Nol who seized the government by a military coup. (supported by Nixon and the US government who wanted a strategic hold in Cambodia, from which to fight Vietnam)

Each warring side, used land-mines to segregate and defend their area.
This vicious war method, cause the loss of life and limbs in people (mostly children) all over Cambodia until as recently as 2004.


When I mentioned the 'professional beggars' on the street of Siem Reap, I am not suggesting that real poverty does not exist in Cambodia.
In fact, 35% of Cambodians people, live below the national poverty line (the poverty line deemed appropriate for a country by its authorities) of $0.45 per day.
Imagine this.... $0.45 a day....

But a visit to the countryside and my very talkative driver, tells me that in the countryside, people live without the need for money.

They have no electricity, they work the fields with no machinery, only with the help of a water buffalo, they grow what they need and do without what they cannot trade with their neighbors.

There are no heating bills as the country is tropical and hot.
They cook on wood fire and take showers in the rivers.
Most people live with no furniture at all. They sleep and eat on mats on the floor.
The diet is rice and greens that they grow themselves.
Coconuts and palms are used for cooking, drinking, while hats and mat weavings are done from the fronds.

In rural areas, children do not play with doles or Teddy bears.
They play with plastic bottle's caps, or with their rubber sandals.
I saw kids play with a jump rope, or draw lines in the sand to jump and skip.
Some played games with stones and sticks.

In a cavernous shrine, filled with blue smoke, circulating from a thousand burning incense, I leaned to pray and offered a donation to a shaved headed Buddhist nun.
She smiled at me with gratitude and tied a red rope to my wrist.

This red rope is a blessing, given in return for a donation and it is a symbol of the person's generosity .
But in a culture so poor and so full of land mines and childhood disease victims, where the people feel so disempowered and needy,.... wearing a red rope, is like advertising that you are willing to give.

Large groups of beggars and vendors descended upon my car at every shrine and temple that we stopped to explore.

I contemplate taking off the red rope... But I did not... I wanted the blessings.... We all need blessings and I love to bless and to be blessed...

They do not tell you this in guide books...but you are NOT going to explore Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples, alone.
There are buses full of Japanese, Chinese, Korean and European tourists in every shrine and temple.

My guide, is a master of avoiding the buses.
He times our visits right before or after they have left... And I am able to enjoy some quiet time in some of these amazing temples.


The currency on the streets of Siem Reap, is the green US dollars.
NOBODY wants to accept the Cambodiam Riel, that I converted dutifully at the airport upon arrival.
Even the locals use only USD and prices in stores and restaurants, are printed only in USD.

People frowned at me when I suggested to convert the bill to the local currency.
It felt very strange to go to a New Zealand bank ATM in Cambodia, and get it spouting only US dollars.


An average GOOD salary in Cambodia is around $400 a month
Corrupt policeman can earn a 'Very Large' salary of $700 a month.
When I ask how do they use corruption, I am told that policemen stop people for speeding and pocket the fees.
Their 'take' varies by their assessment of the driver and his car, and what they estimate he can pay... Most pocketed fees ranges from $3 to $10
If you refuse to pay the policeman, they will escort you to the police station, where the fees are double.
Most people just pay the policemen, knowing they are being scammed.


Teachers earn $150 a month for a full time schedule, and they too, earn more through corruption.

This REALLY surprised me.
I asked how can teachers use corruption to earn more?

I am told that they teach fast and use incomprehensible terms that the children do not follow.
When a child says that he does not understand, the teacher suggest that they need private tutoring.
They proceed to ask the parents to send the kids for private lessons in their homes.

It is a sad situation.
When a country is so poor, and it lives on donations made by other countries.
Cambodia had been occupied and at war for so long, its people had become crafty or corrupt... They have no trust in their government.

I took a walk through a shanti town neighborhood on a muddy canal in town.
I am told that the government wanted to relocate them into a better housing development.
The assessment was that $25,000 USD were needed per family.

The Japanese government donated the money to relocate dozens of families, but the Cambodian official pocketed the money... The shanti town is still there... Its people still living without clean water, trying to make a living by selling cooked snack food, and cheap items.


So..... Why am I so happy to be here?....... I ask myself....
Because the place has a soul.....
People still remember how precious it is to live....to be human.... Despite circumstances.
They work and live outdoors... nothing is done behind closed doors, as it is in my world.
People sleep in hammocks, with their kids crawling around, old women sing, everyone is a musician..... Everyone knows how to play many musical instruments.
People are gentle.... They smile with honesty in their eyes.... They have warmth and sweetness in their manners.
I feel happy and breathe easy here....